Naoris
This French biotechnology company, based in Bordeaux, develops and produces active ingredients for the cosmetics industry, with a particular focus on biotechnological processes, namely active plant cells produced by plant cell culture.
Naoris said it was relying on the advice of toxicology experts and university professors to validate its research, and had partnered with scientific, medical and pharmaceutical experts from the University of Bordeaux and the Bordeaux National Agricultural Research Institute (INRA).
The recently launched product contains a sustainable skincare ingredient that uses intelligent cellular stimulation to rejuvenate the skin and reduce wrinkles. According to the company, the ingredient “targets oxidized proteins and aging cells” and is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles and improve skin quality.
As hair will be a hot category in 2024, the company has also launched Hair Revive, an anti-ageing active ingredient specialised in extending the hair growth cycle. [MM+Zn]The company describes it as a “plant shell made of musk mallow cells and the mineral zinc” that “helps maintain hair growth, length and pigmentation throughout the hair growth cycle.”
Debut
Debut, a US-based biotechnology pioneer, has signed an agreement with multinational corporation L’Oreal Group to develop over 12 bio-identical ingredients to replace conventional ingredients currently used across L’Oreal’s various global brands across skin, hair, color cosmetics and fragrance categories.
Debut, a vertically integrated biotechnology company, produces scientifically designed, biobased, and clinically proven products and brands at scale, claiming that its practices are “driven by potency, purity, and performance.”
The San Diego-based company said it is focused on facilitating the beauty industry’s transition from traditional ingredients derived from petroleum and cultivation to high-performing, yet potentially more sustainable, biotech ingredients.
Aetera Biotech
Italian green biotechnology company Aethera Biotech recently launched a new patented “Rose” extract in partnership with French natural ingredients company Robertet Group.
The two companies are collaborating in the field of biotech plant complexes and are planning what they call a “sustainable and visionary partnership” that will combine the Robertet Group’s expertise in sourcing natural ingredients with Acera Biotech’s scientific innovation to “enhance the value of the plant world.”
At this year’s Global Cosmetics Show, where biotechnological ingredients were a big topic, we met with Raffaella Rizzi of Robert Group to find out more about this innovation: AQ3Rose CROP-G.
ExoLab Italy
Exosomes are currently a hot topic in the skincare field, and one company to watch is ExoLab Italia, an Italian startup specializing in plant-derived exosome technology extracted from organic fruits and vegetables.
Exosomes are extracellular vesicles that are naturally released by the cells of all living organisms and are known to promote skin healing and regeneration.
At the global trade fair InCosmetics Global 2024 in April, the company unveiled a new ingredient called “Exo Elixir,” extracted from Alpine rose petals, titrated with L-ascorbic acid and available in powder form.
The company is now partnered with multinational corporation DSM-Firmenich and we believe Cosmetics Design-Europe is a company to watch…
Microphyto
Another French company doing great things in the biotechnology sector is Microphyt, which uses microalgae to create cosmetic ingredients.
At this year’s InCosmetics 2024 show, the company launched two new ingredients: Luteana for facial skin care and Luteana Scalp for hair care.
Microphyt has identified two molecules of interest for addressing structural and biochemical imbalances: DHA, a microalgal omega-3 that “can restore structural imbalances through remodeling the lipid cement,” and fucoxanthin, a marine carotenoid that “can restore biochemical imbalances through its anti-inflammatory and anti-protease properties.”
The company’s ingredient is derived from the Tahitian microalgae Tisochyrisis lutea, which lives in sensitive yet stressful environments (warm waters with high salinity and acidity) and has great adaptability.
